Rameez Makhdoomi
As I boarded the bus for Pakistan, the fear of violence which has engulfed the country since last so many years caused severe tensions in my mind. I was on a trip to its capital Islamabad to attend a conference. As I entered into the country through Wagah border in Punjab our bus hit the road towards Lahore, the fashion city. The roads and the sprawling fields passing through were quite akin to this side of Punjab. The fields were as sprawling and fertile as in Punjab while the dusty roads equally put me under impression of travel in Amritsar city.
The open fields and the dusty roads gradually faded as we progressed towards main city Lahore. The city was full in bloom. The tall standing buildings, green gardens, historical monuments offered a soothing feeling to our eyes.
Since it was my first stop towards my destination before embarking another bus for Islamabad, I had a lunch at restaurant. The menu for non- vegetarian food looked more affordable then vegetarian. The costs for Vegetarian food were quite high.
After finishing the lunch I boarded the bus for my ultimate destination- Islamabad, though its final destination was Peshawar. In a short while after crossing the main city the bus hit on the motorway road, one of the first class roads of world, depicting violence ridden countries progress. The 264 kilometer journey via bus on this road amid the soothing pashtun music enjoyed by the passengers of Peshawar turned the journey matter of few hours.
I grabbed an opportunity and mingled with the co-passenger from Peshawar, Ali, and discussed the contours of politics with him in his country.
He was highly disappointed with the prevailing chaos in country. He was committed to see an end to the ongoing violence by extremists. “Pakistan has seen a lot of bloodshed but love will ultimately triumph,” he told me with firm belief in peace.
Hailing from the Charssada of frontier province, he stated -“We have seen lot of bloodshed and violence. The society and state is leading fight against these fanatics. Despite so much carnage the supporters of different civilized discourse like one propounded by Bacha Khan is alive. Carnage and destruction leads societies nowhere. Understanding of religion via prism of love will heal our problems and I am hopeful of future.”
While we discussed interesting political anecdotes, the bus halted at Islamabad and I bid him adieu. My stay in the city confirmed me the committed for non violence and economic progress by its people despite the vicious cycle of violence here by extremist groups.
It was the cleanest and well organized green city I have ever seen. Such facts are hardly known or depicted by the international media. After a brief halt I boarded a taxi for city tour and its driver Shabir showed me few spots of Islamabad. I realized from these spots that the country is giving befitting reply to the extremist groups and it is ushering to a progressive path.
Pertinently, a visit to Centaurus Mall which is one of Islamabad’s hottest attractions shows its worth undoubtedly. The mall is counted among the best malls in south Asia.
During my brief stay with another Pakistani scholar Lubna Khan at Abpara market we sipped a hot tea and discussed the economic and political structure of country and how it is battling out terrorism. The hospitality was unquestionable here. At this spot I came across a Kashmiri tea selling hot though it doesn’t taste like our pink tea (Noun Chai) and is a mixture of salt and sugar.
I went with Lubna to world famous Islamic University of Pakistan where I felt the scars of violence. Outside a women cafeteria, Lubna pointed out that few years back a worst human tragedy had occurred when a suicide bomber blew himself and took 20 more innocent lives. “This is not any ordinary cafeteria here more than 20 female students were blown up by the suicide bomber few years back in dastardly attack.”
The Zarb-e-Azab operation under National Program started by the Pakistan government is proving very effective to disapprove the growing fanaticism in country. Nationalism has started to dominate discourse from roads to University and sectarian lines being forgotten. The mood in universities was also in favor of intellectual discourse and the general consensus was that in this ever growing violent world Pakistan should not be part of any turf war and project itself as a refreshing state. Many learned Pakistanis also opined that in the wake of burning middle east they are in no way in a position to be party to what is seen as Iran- Saudi turf war.
The security apparatus shows fool proof measures in place given to the alarming violence in country. Importantly, getting a Sim card is not possible for outsider as the Pakistan government enforced all SIM card activations to be biometrically verified through the National Database and Registration Authority (NADRA) database and only NADRA Card holders can get it.
From shopkeeper to cab driver everyone I came across has firm belief that extremism has no value and disputes should be solved via power of arguments and this thought is holding supreme in the urban shades of the country.
“Wars would lead us nowhere. Now whole world is burning due to violence and in the mad cycle of violence nobody can call the shots. Time is ripe for world to give peace a chance, violence has outlived its significance,” a dry fruit seller would tell me during shopping.
I also had honor to deliver my speech on South Asian peace related paradigms at Riphah International University (Riphah), which is a private research university located in Islamabad. Riphah International University, Islamabad is a private University, chartered by the Federal Government of Pakistan in 2002. The University was established with a view to produce professionals with Islamic moral and ethical values.
Hearing to speeches here the predominant view was that only peace process can lead to opening the way towards progress and conflict resolution.
And at a time, when we are just dosed with negativity it was a surprising to meet and hear at RIPAH university conference to Rukhsana Khan from Pakistan Administered Kashmir perusing her research in Islamabad university on ancient Sharda Civilization especially Sharda temples in Kishen Ganga and Neelum valley.
On the other hand, the feel that Kashmir dispute is being put on backburner is also evident in Pakistani learned discourse. Amna Ibrahim, a Pakistani research Scholar based at Lahore stated – “Due to internal crisis in Pakistan the nation is entangled in its own problems. Pakistan is now after its own survival and establishment is looking to safeguard and secure its own interests and sovereignty. Pakistan army though still does not want its hands off from the Kashmir dispute as it is an emotive issue for them and for several public quarters, but as is the logic when a nation faces hard internal problems it gets defocused from other issues. “
As I was interacting with lawyers at Supreme Court of Pakistan the news of deadly attack on Charsadda Bacha Khan University at Khyber province came and pale of gloom descended on many faces.
The urge to travel and see India is also seen among many Pakistanis especially youth. A youth Shabir Ahmad from country’s Punjab province despite having been to many countries in Europe is living with the hope and dream to visit India.
“I have visited many European countries but visiting India is my dream that I hope to fulfill soon.” As you peep into the galleries of cellphones of the country’s youth, they are fully loaded with the bollywood songs enjoyed and cherished by one and all.
In nutshell, one thing from bus journey to University conferences became clear that extremism has lost currency in Pakistan as the scars of violence have left deep wounds on its economy and psyche. Despite the national capital bestowed with world class infrastructure and great historical importance, the city is still struggling to attract the tourist flow to revive its economy due to impact of violence.
The growing extremisms have given the unison voice to the people above from sects and regions and are firm to defeat the violent forces.
Research scholars pursuing research in diverse topics were the travel memories I returned with from the trouble torn country. However, one can get a real feel of place by only visiting it in reality rather than being fed by other sources especially by media.
